Travel to Central Europe - Budapest, Salzburg & Prague

Contributed by MJ Muchow, The Hive Overland Park

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When we made the decision to visit Central Europe in October I understood the weather would be cooler and cities would be less packed with tourists, (hooray!)  What I didn’t consider was the changing colors of the season. To my wonderful surprise the fall deciduous trees and shrubs turn the same amazing yellow, red and orange that they do in many parts of the US!  Let's travel to Central Europe...

BUDAPEST

Budapest, like most cities of central Europe, has iconic buildings  in a variety of architectural styles that are hundreds of years old. The simple act of walking the streets becomes an event. It’s actually two ancient cities in one. Buda on the west side of the Danube river includes The Castle District, home to Fisherman’s Bastion, St. Matthias Church and the Buda Castle.  Fisherman’s Bastion provides  a bird’s eye view of the city because you’re high above Pest on the other side.  You’re also directly across from the magnificent Parliament Building.  Gothic architecture is found in many of the buildings here.  St. Matthias was destroyed and rebuilt multiple times over it’s 800 years, and it shows evidence of this diverse past in both color and architecture.  Buda Castle, now an art museum exclusive to Hungarian artists, stands out behind and above the famous Szechenyi Chain Bridge. It’s Baroque style is in contrast to the rest of the castle district.  If you like high quality art galleries Buda Castle is nice because you can get through it in 90 minutes. It has a terrific gift shop too.

Pest has it’s iconic buildings as well and great shopping, many restaurants and thermal baths, (Budapest was built over thermal hot springs.)  We toured Parliament, and the Opera House, which was designed to mimic the famous Renaissance style Opera House in Vienna, only smaller.  The exquisite architectural details in both buildings, especially the gold filament, was eye popping.  So too is the famous New York Cafe, nearby.  It was named the, “most beautiful cafe in the world,” in 2011.  You can stop in for coffee or make reservations.  (Either way don’t miss it!) Finally, for history lovers the Terror Museum is a must see. Hungry was conquered by the Nazi’s then occupied by the Soviets. This museum does its complicated 20th century history justice. 

If you have any energy left at the end of the day, check out a “ruin” bar.  A cornucopia of colorful lights, graffiti and mismatched furniture these derelict buildings are unique.  We visited the first bar, Szimpla Kurt, and basically walked around in amazement before we enjoyed a $2 beer.

SALZBURG

Some cities are so charming they captivate your heart.  Salzburg is such a city! Located in the foothills of the alps it’s bisected by the tree lined Salzach river. The banks of the river function more as a promenade for strolling and biking, and many bridges make it easy to get from one side to the other.

Salzburg was named for its surrounding salt mines and the “white gold” that made the city rich. Today music and the arts play a huge role here due to the numerous Universities that offer programs in the arts. It’s also the birthplace of Mozart. Hohensalzburg Fortress, built in 1077, looms atop a large hill overlooking the historic district. One of the largest castles in all of Europe during the middle ages, we rode the funicular there, then walked down.  The views from the top are worth the visit, and you can tour a few museums that tell the castle story. Just beneath the castle, on the river side is St. Peter’s Abbey & Cemetery. The Von Trapp family, of Sound of Music fame, fled from the Nazi’s by hiding in this cemetery before they escaped to Switzerland.  The movie was filmed in parts of Salzburg. The Pegasus fountain at Mirabell Palace & Gardens, is where the Von Trapp children actors sang “Do Re Mi.” 

For a wonderful night of entertainment visit Mirabell Palace for one of their nightly concerts featuring the music of Mozart and Vivaldi.   What I thought would be a tourist type event was nothing but the real thing!  My husband and I were blown away by the talented violinists. 

The old town of Salzburg is called Altstadt. Mostly packed with upscale shopping, it’s near the Salzburg Cathedral and town squares.  The middle ages look and feel of old town contribute to Salzburg’s charm.  If you have an extra day consider taking a tour through the alps.  We spent a delightful day visiting the “eagles nest” and a Bavarian village.  Lastly, don’t forget to visit an Austrian Beer Garden.  We had a delightful meal at the iconic Augustine Beau first opened in 1621.

PRAGUE

This city is deceiving.  I felt lost in a corn maze of cement block and cobblestone streets our first day.  The many pollution-damaged statues and buildings seemed to stand out in my mind.  By day two, I was able to focus and start to understand why so many people love Prague!

The Astronomical clock in Town Square is a great place to start the day.  People gather on the hour waiting for the clock to sound. At the top of every hour, starting at 9 am, the clock puts on a brief show: a skeleton rings his bell, twelve apostles walk by, a rooster crows, and then the clock chimes.  Everyone cheers after and goes on their way.  The clock is outside the Old Town Hall.  Inside, you can take an elevator almost to the top, then walk the stairs to the roof.  The views are jaw-dropping!  You can also tour the state rooms, the chapel, and see the inner workings of the Astronomical Clock, from inside the Town Hall.  Tickets are required though for entry. 

The gothic style Tyn Church is one of the most magnificent looking buildings in Prague, and a dominate feature in the Old town. Built in the 1400’s, the church’s two towers are 80 meters high, and each tower’s spire is topped by eight smaller spires. We didn’t tour the inside because I’d read it was quite plain compared to other European Churches. Walking across the Charles Bridge is a must do in Prague. We walked from Old town across the bridge to Prague Castle, a UNESCO World Heritage site, and the largest Castle complex in Europe.  It’s more like a small village. The dominate building is St. Vitus Cathedral (gothic) and it is stunning - both inside and out.  You can tour the Old Royal Palace and Basilica of St. George as well, so if you like the middle ages plan on spending the day.  We particularly enjoyed the museum because the relics were very well preserved and amazing! If you get to the castle early buy the tickets there.  If not, you might want to get them online to avoid the lines.

Our last evening in Prague we celebrated our anniversary at the Mlynec Restaurant, located near the Charles Bridge. The river views, exceptional meal and terrific service made the evening special.  Our waiter, understanding we were from Kansas, brought a special surprise at the end of our meal! Though our family supports K State we appreciated their thoughtfulness.

A final note. about the food in Central Europe.  The sweet flat bread, “Langos” in Budapest is tasty & filling. Choose your favorite toppings and give it a try.  The grease-free (lean) sausages, potatoes and sauerkraut in Salzburg was a meal I won’t forget. In Prague try the goulash, there is debate if this is a soup or stew but either way you’ll probably eat it all.     

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